chicken potato
1. Pigment D Esselte
The Basque region of France is ripe with peppers, but there is one that is prized above them all:
the famous pimento Esselte. It is so prized that it even has an Appellation Origin Protégée (AOP)
designation (meaning it's a traditional product protected by the government). To be labeled
pimento d epaulette it must meet strict standards, from the varietal of seed used to grow the
peppers, to where and how they are grown, and even how they are dried. palette peppers can be
found fresh in the French Basque Country, but are usually found in dried powdered form in
kitchens across the region and stateside. Brick-red in color, pimento d palette has a delicate
fruitiness with a medium heat level, a gentle spice that lingers on the tongue. The pepper powder
is used both in cooking, like my and as a finishing spice over prepared dishes.
2. Jamb on De Bayonne (Bayonne Ham)
Jamb on de Bayonne is a cured ham crafted in the Adour Basin in the Pyrenees. Named after the
port city of Bayonne, this beloved French ham is similar in style to Spanish Jarmon serrano or
jam on brick and Italian prosciutto. This ham is so cherished that there is even a dedicated to
jumbo de Bayonne every year (in Bayonne, of course). Like pimento d epaulette, jumbo de
Bayonne is protected as a traditional ingredient by the government. Jamb on de Bayonne begins
with local pigs that have been born and bred in the Adour Basin. Fed on corn, the meat from
these special animals is sweet, with an almost nutty fattiness. To make the ham, the legs are cured
with salt from a saline spring in Sallies-de-Bearn and aged for about nine months. The finished
jumbo is beautifully balanced you’re first met with the delicate sweetness of the meat, which
opens up to subtle notes of umami, and the pièce de résistance is the fat (out, eat the fat!) that
almost melts on your tongue, leaving the faintest flavor of hazelnuts. Serve thin slices of jumbo de
Bayonne on their own before the meal or as part of a cheese and charcuterie board. You can also
cook with this cured meat; try finely chopping it before adding to the base of soups and stews
3. Sheep’s Milk Cheeses
France may be known for cheeses like Brie, Camembert, Roquefort, and Loire Valley goat
cheeses, but the sheep’s milk cheeses of the Pyrenees and French Basque Country deserve a special
place at the table and on your cheese plates. These aged sheep’s milk cheeses, like Osseo Irate and
Petit Basque, are semi hard, with a natural rind and a supple, smooth texture. The flavor is
reminiscent of browned butter and toasted, salted hazelnuts, with just a touch of fresh cream on
the finish. Because sheep’s milk itself has a higher percentage of fat than cow’s or goat’s milk, the
resulting cheeses are richer, with a sumptuous mouthfeel. The flavor depends on which season the
milk is from—in the spring and summer months, the sheep have access to lots of natural flora in
the rolling foothills of the Western Pyrenees, so you get pleasing notes of fresh hay and grass.
Basque-Pyrenees sheep’s milk cheeses make a wonderful addition to any cheese plate or board.
They love just about any accoutrement, from comfiture de crises noises (Basque black cherries in
syrup) and candied nuts to charcuterie like jamb on de Bayonne, as well as pepper-forward
condiments like papered and sweet Chile jelly made with Epaulette peppers.
4. Crises Noises (Black Cherries)
Crises noises Tasso are black cherries specifically grown near the French Basque town of Tasso.
Black cherry trees used to be prevalent in the area (my great-grandmother even used to hide in
the cherry tree on her farm as a child). However, as time has passed, the number of cherry trees
has dwindled in the area, making them even more prized and beloved. Made up of a few varieties
of cherries, the crises noises assoil are sweet and fragrant, with just enough tart acidity to balance
their honeyed flavor. You can find these French cherries fresh during the early summer months,
but most often they are turned into a comfiture (jam) with sugar and a touch of lemon juice, so
they can be enjoyed all year long. Crises noises are a traditional accompaniment to Osseo- irate
cheese, as well as the star ingredient in one of Basque-Pyrenees’ most well-known baked goods a
double-crusted tart filled with pastry cream and or cherry jam
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